5 emerging designers from Copenhagen Fashion Week to watch

There are a few things Copenhagen Fashion Week is known for. Most notably, the unassuming street style imagery coming out of the week is energetically unparalleled; it is one of the only fashion weeks in the world that prides itself on its sustainability measures, attracting brands with aligned philosophies from all over the world to participate in the presentation of their collections in the Danish capital; and Danish designers seem to have a knack for knowing exactly what we want to move into. Some of the happiest brands have made global strides in recent years. We can thank GANNI for its beautiful puffy dresses, ROTATE for the sexiest party dresses and Saks Potts for introducing the love of pastels and giving away the coat of the season time and time again.

When it comes to emerging designers, there’s no shortage either, and this season at CPHFW, as part of its new NEWTALENT incubator program, emerging designers have caught our eye. From bodycon separates at A. Roege Hove to tailoring classes at Latimmier, here are the five up-and-coming Danish designers on our radar for Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring 2023.

A. Roege Hove

Amalie Røge Hove’s eponymous label began as a knitwear offering that defied tradition with a modern, artistic take on quirky craftsmanship. For his Spring 23 collection, revisiting his first creations was an integral part of the collection. There were sheer, ribbed turtleneck racerbacks paired with cotton-knit wrap skirts, separates in shades of lilac and apple green, highlighted by bodycon monochrome pieces. For an emerging brand, Hove has done an almost perfect job of tapping into all the little things we want to wear in the summer.


As part of CPHFW’s NEWTALENT program, Finnish designer Ervin Latimer showcased his collection in a CrossFit room and offered a tight collection of modern tailoring. The show, titled “Juvenile Expectations,” featured oversized shirts with detachable hooked sleeves, shiny suits and strappy poplin separates, as well as ties and cropped tank tops.

jade cutter

After launching her eponymous brand in 2020, Jade Cropper has enjoyed two years of unprecedented success. With an eye to upcoming trends and a silhouette that is increasingly distinctly her own, this year’s SS23 show took inspiration from her previous work and improved upon it. There were distressed and acid-washed denim dresses, dystopian suspender dresses, monk leather jackets and tight jersey two-pieces. If there’s anyone we’re watching for an emerging “it” brand, Jade Cropper is at the top of the list.


If you feel like CPHFW is all about floral dresses and colorful coats, let Sunflower prove you wrong. Despite the name, Sunflower founder Ulrik Pedersen is all about making wardrobe essentials hassle-free, and we mean it literally. Staged a series of shows since 2018 in random locations, in random slots of the CPHFW schedule (this year it was a standing room only show, which was set up in the courtyard outside the offices from Sunflower), letting the clothes speak for themselves. What do they say? Above all, that you will have them forever, existing in the space between painfully trendy and extremely classic. There are bombers, shorts and leather pants paired with perfect white ribbed tank tops; shiny marbled silk suits, double-breasted blazers and pinstriped jackets. Arguably the best part was how fit everything was.


Spelling the initials of founder and creative director, Peter Lundvald Nielsen, the former Balenciaga, Vetements and Ottolinger alum brought in rapper Blackhaine for his show SS23, which was as rebellious, deconstructed and utilitarian as his design background. As part of CPHFW’s NEWTALENT program, it was a melting pot of European punk, club kid and gothic influences that saw models step out wearing cropped crochet tops, distressed denim jeans, dresses that morphed into moto-mami-esque hoodies and leather bikini tops and mini skirts.

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