Chloé Pre-Fall 2022 Collection | Vogue
Hearst is pleased to highlight several achievements in this collection. Botanical dyes are one of them, like Gaby Aghion’s pinkish orange hue in the merino wool sweater skirt set. There’s also biodegradable denim, which Hearst cut into a pair of high waisted flared pants and a matching jacket. “This is the third season where we work with Adriano Goldschmied [the legendary denim expert] on this project to solve circular denim, following the jeans redesign guidelines published by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, ”she said. The making of the new Chloé jeans eliminates rivets, which never break, and the fabric is a blend of 70% recycled cotton and 30% hemp, ”which is grown in France. Growing hemp and flax emits less greenhouse gases and requires less water than cotton, ”she noted.
But for vegan and vegetarian customers – and anyone who’s read recent reports of fashion’s links to cattle ranching and deforestation in Brazil – the notable amount of leather in the collection will raise eyebrows. “From a sustainability standpoint, I have a very specific stance on leather,” says Hearst. “Leather is bio-waste from the meat industry. I’m very against the industrialization of meat — I’m really against the way animal husbandry is industrialized. I don’t think we can afford to eat a diet high in meat protein, and I certainly don’t recommend it. But while she accepts that switching to plant-based diets “is better for the environment,” from her perspective, “the truth is, no one kills animals for leather. The price of leather is falling and people are wasting it. This in itself creates an environmental disposal situation. “What are we going to do with the leather other than use it?” “
Chloé’s press release indicates how the sourcing of Chloé leathers is certified by the Leather Working Group, which is “an international organization made up of players in the leather supply chain, working to promote environmental best practices in the field. leather manufacturing and allied industries. The organization looks at the operations of tanneries, “which means leather processing is done properly, which means not wasting water and using harsh chemicals,” as Hearst puts it. About 75% of the leather handbag supply comes from tanneries certified by the Leather Working Group.
However, there is always more to explore. A report in The Guardian November 29 highlighted research from Stand.earth, a supply chain research firm in partnership with Slow Factory and Model Activist, showing that the Leather Working Group’s mission stops at capturing what is happening in tanneries and slaughterhouses. Its visibility does not go back to what is happening at farm level, and therefore “does not allow us to know if the skins are linked to deforestation”.
In normal practice, hides arrive at tanneries from multiple sources and are often mixed, meaning that fashion brands, whether luxury or mass-produced, “risk” buying without the. know the destruction of the Amazon rainforest with the finished product. “As many Amazon executives have warned,” the Slow Factory wrote on its Instagram page, “this is a human rights / climate / biodiversity / public health crisis with consequences for the whole world”.
It’s a much bigger problem than Chloe. It is spreading throughout the industry and putting question marks on every leather bag, shoe and coat we buy (this is also an issue in the automotive industry, which is the second largest user of leather after fashion). tracing and labeling, as well as the development of more robust alternatives, can solve this problem. Knowing Gabriela Hearst, she will be among the first to work to find these answers.