Fendi’s SS22 Menswear Brings Back Bare Bellies For Boys
Here’s a general prediction for the SS22 men’s season: Fashion is exciting. Okay, that might not be technically true of all of it, but customers of luxury brands (or all brands, for that matter) most certainly are. In fact, who isn’t? Sex has made a comeback in recent AW21 womenswear collections – all strappy, bodycon dresses and bare skin – so it’s inevitable that it will visit the much more traditional world of menswear as well. Step into Fendi Menswear which offers a sartorial solution for our coming hot vax summer: Belly-less clothing for men.
Fendi was all about the flex abs. There are no two ways about it. Short tailor, short tops, neat little suits of jackets up to the torso and boxer shorts. Menswear designers are always trying to find ways to refresh the tailored two piece suit. It was one of the boldest attempts to emerge from Italy so traditional in years; a nation with the most intricately sculpted marble torsos known to civilization.
A few of the crop top looks came with flashing waist chains and you’ll miss it with tiny Fendi chopsticks, and you know what? They are really sexy. In fact, they feel more sensual and erotic than going topless. There is something about a scantily clad body that looks more suggestive than a fully nude body (just ask Manet’s Olympus). Additionally, the crop top was once a menswear staple for men of all sexualities, but in the 90s it faded and never really made a comeback (here’s our full story of men wearing tops. short). Hoping that this heralds a new era.
Silvia Fendi said that her show, which was staged at the Fendi headquarters in Rome and directed by filmmaker Nico Vascellari, was inspired by looking out of her window on the top floor of Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana and seeing an aerial view of Rome’s Seven Hills, the Apennine Mountains and glimpses of the Tyrrhenian Sea. “Our singular perspective at that time has altered our perception of the world – and mine has become so intertwined with what I see from the arches and roof of our building,” she said. “It’s almost like a bird’s eye view of Rome from here. The colors and perspective are always changing – the soft palette of the Roman sky through the day is so beautiful and I wanted it to be the focal point of this collection.
This would explain the calming tones of the sunset, the feather-light prints and intarsias made from loom-knitted sheepskin, designed to resemble aerial views of the earth and inky nocturnal outlines, almost as if they were seen from an airplane (remember that?). An illustrated map of Rome from the Fendi archives has become a map print, with Palazzo Fendi in the center and the Tiber crossing the ancient labyrinth of buildings and monuments. From Silvia’s point of view, the Holy City appeared small, which led to a “distortion of scale”. In other words, crop tops! They may be small, but their impact on the larger aerial view of menswear will be significant. It was a collection of reflections on the blue sky for Fendi.