Jonathan Cohen creates a world of fondant flowers for Spring 2023

New York-based Jonathan Cohen is well known for his vibrant, colorful and patterned dresses – and while the brand’s Spring 2023 collection sticks to that tradition, it also introduces some exciting new elements.

The designer was inspired by prolific female artists including Frida Kahlo, Lee Krasner and Judit Reigl – women who all proved to be upstaged by their male counterparts and who explored elements of chance and spontaneity in their paintings, inviting viewers to detect abstract patterns. forms. This kind of gestural statement is present throughout the Spring 2023 collection, where florals and drop effects form expressive patterns. Rather than sourcing from a textile artist, however, Cohen created all of the prints himself.

As in previous collections, flowers are a recurring motif: Matilija poppies, snapdragons, hydrangeas and ranunculus form the building blocks of the prints.

“The reason I really love prints is because I think they can tell a story very directly,” Cohen told Fashionista. This can be seen on a knitted maxi with rainbow stripes that seem to “melt”, on a bustier and ball skirt set with painterly flowers and on a multicolored silk dress with acid polka dots.

Construction is another big spring goal. “The shapes evolve…You have the dramatic skirts, but the shapes are very strong,” Cohen says. The designer certainly knows her way around a pretty dress, creating interesting tension points with pleats and loose ends. Even boxer-style pantsuits detail the silhouette of a flowing dress, linking it to the brand’s DNA.

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For Spring 2023, we also see Cohen step out of his comfort zone with his foray into leather goods: an embroidered leather trench coat, a flower-appliqué leather sheath (made from scraps of skin) and buttonholes. in leather imbue the otherwise feminine collection with a tougher, sexier edge.

“When I look at my closet, one of the pieces I’ve had the longest is my leather jacket. I bought it almost 15 years ago,” Cohen says. “It was quite natural to integrate it.”

The brand has worked with US biotech company Evolved by Nature to create leather pieces coated with an activated silk finish that doesn’t involve chemical treatment, as an alternative to pollutants typically used by industry. The company has “really done the work, to invest this kind of [sustainable] technology,” says Cohen.

In keeping with this approach to sustainability, the brand continues to upcycle leftovers from previous collections into its new ones – in this case, stitched flower cutouts on a black bustier and turquoise party dress, as well as the interiors of select pieces.

Check out the full Jonathan Cohen Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.

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