Khaite Resort 2023 finds inspiration in the sexy and sinister nights of New York – WWD
While she may not be as headline-grabbing as Kim Kardashian as Marilyn Monroe, perhaps the crystal-clear Khaite off-the-shoulder column dress with hood and matching gloves that Lily Aldridge wore to the 2022 Met Gala was the pinnacle. of the kind of stealthy, minimalist glamor that Catherine Holstein is bringing to American fashion today.
For station 2023, the designer leaned into that feeling of chic armour, with a sharp and sporty collection with a welcome touch of whimsy for the brand.
By now, followers of Khaite know that Holstein is obsessed with Manhattan nightlife, or rather what it was from Studio 54 to its own Bungalow 8 heyday in the early Aught years.
“Now Instagram is the new nightlife and people are more voyeuristic, but you had to go to the club to see what was going on,” she said, recalling going out five nights a week once. when she had the flu” because I had so much FOMO.
Holstein is more of a homebody these days, but snapshots of sexy and sinister nights in the city she loves so much came fast and furiously into this collection, inspiring a Jerry Hall-esque liquid sequin dress, for example, uniquely made like a shirt dress. for day-to-night versatility with long sleeves and a sheer georgette neckline, worn with low-heeled Mary Jane shoes to keep up with New York City.
For the holidays, the designer upped the sparkle with plenty of crystal offerings that should be on many wish lists, dazzling her Davis knee-high boots and Remi hobo, for example.
But she balanced these special-feeling pieces with everyday workhorses. At a time when fashion’s love affair with leatherwear shows no signs of ending, it produces some of the best and most versatile pieces, from a black bustier and pleated trouser look, to a timeless mini. to a zipper, to a long leather jacket with oversized silver studs on the shoulders, worn with a choker which is his version of a punk ball necklace.
There was plenty of outerwear to love, from long skimpy cashmere overcoats, to a masculine herringbone coat with side slits, to the perfect shrunken denim jacket.
“I was stealing everything through style to go to dinner,” she said of the piece. “There are things – the white T, the perfect jeans and the denim jacket – that you’ve been searching for all your life, and I finally feel like we’ve accomplished them. I founded the brand based on of those things that make you feel more of your identity and a part of yourself, things in your closet that you can’t live without.
Ada’s leather-trimmed sheepskin coat (which already has its own waiting list) came in a new lipstick shade, giving it the “f-you” factor that Holstein lives for. Worn over a man’s shirt tucked into high-waisted pants and a crystal anklet shoe, it’s all a woman needs to stand out.
Not to mention the “Working Girl”, the Holstein version of a costume for now is a comfortable camel cashmere polo shirt and matching skirt. Still on the accessories front, she introduced a bucket bag. “I wanted Gena Rowlands to go to Bloomingdales in the ’80s in a trench coat and the saggy leather bag,” she laughed.
Also new for this season is a nod to ’80s ski culture in the form of chunky jacquard sweaters, fun sheepskin wedge sandals and shield-shaped Oakley sunglasses to match the look. “Fmovies like ‘Ski Patrol’ 1-6,” she said of the inspiration, adding that an après-ski capsule collection is in the works.
“We had triple-digit growth last year, and we are aiming for similar growth this year. It is sometimes difficult to keep pace, but we see that there are a lot of opportunities for Khaite”, a- she said, adding that the company had to funnel inventory from its e-commerce site to the recent Bon Marché pop-up store in Paris, because it kept selling out.
A Khaite retail store is also on the horizon, she said. “It’s a big conversation now in the business, and we think it will be important for the brand…to express the New York feeling through many other cities.”