Saint Laurent and Comme des Garçons spring / summer 2022 men’s looks
Oh, how the once rigid fashion calendar has been turned upside down. While the last fall 2021 haute couture outlet floated beautifully on the catwalks in Venice, elsewhere in the same city, Saint Laurent presented its spring / summer 2022 men’s collection.
In the midst of a pandemic, the show was held on one of Venice’s many islands, Isola della Certosa, in an entirely mirrored setting created by artist and filmmaker Doug Aitken, and which echoed the Venice Architecture Biennale, which was happening simultaneously.
In an interesting take on what menswear means today, director Anthony Vaccarello looted Yves Saint Laurent’s massive archives for inspiration, especially for womenswear. Since the founder redesigned men’s fashion for women, there is a nice symmetry between those same ideas that are now coming back to men.
Click our gallery above to see Saint Laurent and Comme des Garçons Spring / Summer 2022 men’s looks.
In predominantly black (a Vaccarello signature), shrunken bespoke jackets arrived worn with flimsy silk shirts with ruffled fronts and cuffs in addition to a nod to the new romantics of the 1980s. Each top was worn open to the belly button, while pants, whether super skinny or single pleated, were paired with skinny belts and 1980s buckle buckle pickers, or Glam Rock platform boots. esque.
1970s bohemian came in the form of flowing blouses and long capes, while the few bursts of color reflected the sunny tones of Saint Laurent’s Majorelle Garden in Marrakech, in a dazzling suit in cobalt blue, or a punchy jacket in pink. , orange and lime.
Recycled from previous women’s collections, Vaccarello dressed his models in lace shirts and quilted bolero jackets, like a look straight from the archives with a golden yellow silk cape, first appearing in the haute couture collection of the Fall 1983. With a ruffled front and pie crust collar, it was mixed with tiny pants and a huge demeanor.
At Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo’s deconstruction was softened with pretty flowers and shown via a Toyko video. Famous for taking everything from costumes to parkas apart for Spring / Summer 2021, the effect was mixed with the type of little flowers you normally see on kitchen aprons and girlish dresses.
The collection was a splendid blend of hard-edged tailoring and soft, feminine touches. An oversized suit jacket had come with the bottom third replaced with a pretty blue fabric and was worn over a silk polka dot shirt that had been stretched to reach the knees and flowery leggings.
Elsewhere, an oversized pea coat was now a 50/50 hybrid with a cherry-yellow and pink daisy fabric, as loose-fitting, vaguely chintzy floral pants were pulled up and gathered at the knees, and topped with an embroidered waistcoat and long coat in a black on pink brocade. The motif was flowers, of course.
Opting for leggings over pants for much of the collection, these were worn with shorts that barely protruded under long shirts, or under layered, belted coats adorned with flowers.
A crisp white double-breasted suit was covered in black flowers, which also lined a collarless leather coat, while another suit – this time with blue over white flowers – was rolled up to the knee with leggings flowery protruding below. The pointed cut of a striped pink silk tuxedo was sculpted with scalloped edges and was worn with a trench coat in a casual upholstery pattern.
Updated: July 17, 2021 11:16