six menswear trends from Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week for Men kicked off fashion weeks for the Fall/Winter 2022 season. The Italian fashion metropolis welcomed new faces to its hybrid show calendar, including 44 hip brands Label Group and 1017 Alyx 9SM.
JW Anderson and Alyx were part of Paris Menswear Fashion Week again last season and 44 Label Group, the label of German DJ Kobosil, walked the runway for the very first time in a fashion week. Reason enough to take a closer look. FashionUnited has rounded up the hottest trends and looks.
For the coming winter, brands and designers are betting on cozy outerwear like fleece sweaters and beanies with earflaps. These envelop the wearer and give them a sense of security and protection despite the ongoing pandemic. However, it no longer seems to be about hiding indoors, but about getting out into the cold, rediscovering the world and having an adventure.
Pieces with turtlenecks and high collars have many advantages, especially in winter. They look more stylish than a simple long-sleeved top and, with the right choice of material, can also provide comfort and warmth. In addition, the collar, by ending just below the chin, creates a feeling of protection and security.
In Milan, Zegna, Prada and Tod’s, among others, have all bet on this master key. Zegna offered a wide selection of turtlenecks in different sizes and colors with classic, form-fitting collars that were exposed but also chunky pieces that wrapped around the wearer like a scarf. Brunello Cucinelli focused on chunky, knitted turtlenecks reminiscent of fishermen’s clothing. The Italian menswear brand showed the classic version in combination with jackets. Prada’s oversized, roughly knit sweaters were also reminiscent of rough seas. Alternatively, the fashion house offered close-fitting and sporty versions of the turtleneck shirt. Tod’s also focused on zip-up collars alongside these pieces. Other brands that have introduced this trend to the catwalks are Missoni, Brioni and Dolce & Gabbana.
Belts are a useful tool to play with and change the figure. Prada used them on its broad-shouldered coats to accentuate a V-shape while Han Kjøbenhavn used a belt on a knee-length leather coat to change the shape of the rather static fabric. David Catalán paired a belt with a dark denim jacket with silver trim and at Vìen two black leather belts were worn over a dark blue suit.
Those who find a plain knit sweater a bit too plain may appreciate the patterned versions more. There are playful ones with animals like at JW Anderson, but also darker versions of 44 Labels Group, which rely on symbols reminiscent of radioactivity warning signs. Etro, meanwhile, showed elements of the plant and animal world, some of which were reminiscent of Christmas sweaters. K-Way has put all its eggs in one basket and put unique checks on its knitted products.
A new look for jeans
Denim is also getting a makeover this winter. Bling king Philipp Plein sent down the catwalk a denim two-piece consisting of a jacket and pants, decorated with large-scale sharks. But of course that was not all, the two-tone sharks were framed in diamonds and featured a printed brand logo. Dhruv Kapoor also presented a denim two-piece in a dark blue hue with pixel-shaped yellow flowers contrasting orange decorative stitching. 44 Labels Group also used the aforementioned logo on wide, bright denim shorts and, in another look, decorated the knees of pants with an abstract design.
Comfortable in the cold
Especially on cold and gloomy days, it is difficult to leave your warm bed. Fluffy sweaters and jackets that allow you to continue dreaming even outside are the remedy.
Fendi unveiled a creamy white aviator jacket with brown accents that is both chic and comfortable. Dolce & Gabbana sent several looks like this down the runway, including an oversized brown and black two-piece inspired by a teddy bear. In keeping with the theme, Magliano set up a double bed as the backdrop against which the models showcased the looks, including a mix of varsity jacket and button-up cardigan in a mossy green. Prada, on the other hand, brought some kind of fur to the outside of the coats and used it as fluffy trims on the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket. American outerwear brand Spyder presented several thick and fluffy jackets, some reminiscent of Sesame Street characters, including a red hooded jacket that resembled Elmo’s fur, followed by a blue zip-up jacket reminiscent of Cookie Monster. MSGM also brought color into play and showed off a colorful hooded fleece jacket reminiscent of 90s outerwear.
Keep your ears warm
Those who don’t yet feel warm enough can get a boost with the right hat. In Milan, caps with ear flaps were also presented, including aviator caps with lining.
Zegna showed a gray version of the aviator cap and Magliano a white version with a leopard print on the inside. Fendi presented a cap similar in shape to the cylindrical Fez (also called Tarboosh). However, the piece from the Italian fashion house relied on small ear flaps, leather and two strips that hung down the sides. Dsquared2, meanwhile, showed off several pom-pom hats with ear flaps complete with pom-pom lanyards.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.de. Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.